Thai dualities

dual-1Modern Thais obviously value their legacy from antiquity and its incredible cratfsmanship; temple restoration work was everywhere.

But they have the knack of also living very much in the real and modern world, and we saw energy-saving light globes everywhere – unapologetically even in shrines.

They don’t waste as much as we do in the West; I loved that many garbage bins and their stands, like these pictured below at the Forest Wat, were made from old tyres, turned inside out and cut to suit.
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But in the midst of all the beauty of the temples and gardens, there is an awful lot of cement. It reminded me of the old touristy Katoomba in the Blue Mountains of NSW, where fake grottoes of cement were a feature.
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Here they do a lot of fake log bridges and railings and paint them brown, but they also do fake timber outdoor tables and chairs with fake bark edgings and paint them quite hideously garish in glossy orange or lime green.

We saw them everywhere, private and public, and our bus passed a place where they make them: hundreds of settings glared at us by the roadside, awaiting buyers.

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These seem most incongruous for such an aesthetically conscious people, but they do love colour! This tour bus ( not ours) was at a hot springs/national park;  the ‘antennae’ mirrors make them look like giant bugs.

dual-5And then there was the knowingly-garish, like at the Condoms and Cabbages restaurant in Chiang Rai, adjoining the Hill Tribes Museum and Education Centre (a better choice than taking a tour to gawk at the downtrodden and much-exploited inhabitants of a hill tribe village!)

Associated with and raising funds for the NGO, the Population and Community Development Association, Cabbages and Condoms had great food plus fun models wearing condoms in a way you probably hadn’t considered!

Their menu promises ‘Our food is guaranteed not to cause pregnancy!’

They also need warm clothes for hill tribe children for the winter if you know any grannies with no-one to knit for. What modern Mum really wants handwashable knits as gifts for their kids anymore? Our Xmas time is their cold season. More information here.

Chiang Mai skyline

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This is the view from the cool tiled haven of our room in the great value guesthouse, Safe House.

In the old walled city of Chiang Mai in northern Thailand, the gold and mirror mosaics of the wat and chedi spires jostle for sky space with the bright scalloped reds of temple tiles, the rusting browns of water tanks and corrugated iron roofs, and the greys of untreated timber and asbestos roofing.

Threaded amongst them is the green of trees: papaws and flowering mangoes and wide spreading trees I cannot name, except for the sacred Bodhi tree with its heart-shaped leaves. This is the shape of the wind-catchers that hang below the small temple bells ting-tinging from the chests of the finial creatures I see everywhere.

I heard the bells tinging often; I brought one at the markets and now it hangs on my verandah, giving me tings that are pure Thailand for me.

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I didn’t find out what they represent, but they seemed familiar; then I realised it was Michael Leunig’s Mr Curly I was thinking of, with no disrespect to either.

Safe House Court Guesthouse is at 178 Ratchapakhinai Road, very central, very clean, very cheap.  It has a good Thai restaurant in the tree-shaded front courtyard, and life was made much easier for us by the delightful Yo in reception, a knowledgeable and helpful young man with fluent English.

We also found it useful to be opposite a well-known landmark, Wat U Mong, for giving directions and thus getting home in tuk-tuks and sawng-thaews (open-air mini-cabs and ute-buses).

Back soon

stationI am going travelling so I will be out of regular internet contact for a few weeks and I may be unable to reply to comments straight away.

But posts already in the system will still go up and I’ll do my best to catch up when I get back to my beloved mountain.

See you soon

Sharyn

Carefree kangaroos

January has been very hot, up to 36 degrees here — of  course interspersed with odd days where it plummeted to 13 degrees. It’s not called ‘climate chaos’  for nothing.

Outdoor work needs to be done before the day heats up too much, in my opinion, so I aim to be up around six and work for a few hours or until the sun hits wherever I am. Then I have earned an appetite for breakfast, the right to stay inside and write, and the comfort that things out there aren’t getting too far beyond my management.

There are no horses here any more, as my daughter has them at her place now. So I am gradually removing the tree guards in the yard, collecting the last of the precious manure, weeding around the fruit trees, and attempting to prune broken or munched shrubs into less distorted shapes.

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Working very close to the yard fence the other day, I noted a kangaroo family stretched out on the grass right beside the wire, just above the little dam.

Despite the fact that I had my small and crackly portable radio on and was clipping and clacking and clanking with my tools and the ancient wheelbarrow — they stayed put as I worked towards them.

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I went to get the camera. The biggest stood up when I returned and aimed it;  the other two didn’t bother. An ear flicked, a head raised, an itch was scratched. The sun grew warmer; the kangaroos dozed — carefree in their Wildlife Refuge.

Such are my rewards.

The spider above

Lolling on the couch the other evening, I happened to glance up. In the low rays of the setting sun, an odd bump showed on top of one of the bracing rafters.

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It was the biggest spider I have ever seen, with a very fat, light brown body. As its legs were bent around the rafter I couldn’t see how to catch it without damage.

But I kept the reading light focused on it so I could check if it was on the move — especially towards me. Needless to say, all concentration on my book was ruined.

The next day it was gone, but that night it re-appeared, underneath the rafters, and closer to my couch. It was straddling two 4 x 2 inch timbers (100mm x 50mm) so you can see that if it extended its legs it would be over 4 inches wide.

Again, I couldn’t work out how to catch it safely. I could now see it better —  the body downy and dotted, like a stitched-up Kiwi fruit. The light caught an almost metallic sheen on the legs and eyes.

Next day it was gone again and I haven’t seen it since. But each evening, as my cabin grows dim, wherever I sit, I am now compelled to check above me with the torch. And keep checking.

It is obviously a resident, and probably has been so for a long time.

I’m not fond of spiders; even the thought of looking through pages of spider pictures to try to identify it gives me the creeps. So does anyone know what sort of spider this is?

Japanese memories


In western New South Wales there is a Japanese war cemetery and a Japanese garden, commemorating in different ways the Japanese World War II soldiers who died in Australia.

Here at Cowra there was a prisoner-of-war camp and in 1944 over 500 Japanese made a suicidal break for honourable release: 231 succeeded by death.

In after years the Returned Services League cared for the graves so well that the Japanese Government moved all their war dead on Australian soil to this cemetery.

Later Australian/Japanese joint efforts created a wonderful Japanese Garden, a botanical and meditative treat for visitors as well as a memorial.

The road leading up to the gardens is lined with cherry trees, and below each is the name of a Japanese soldier.

Australian and exotic trees, clipped, shaped or gracefully weeping shrubs, natural boulders and artificial pebble banks and beaches, set off the water that winds through the sloped lawns and gardens, resting in calm pools before rushing off in falls and streams.

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Melbourne: cold but exciting

Back from my week in Melbourne, struck anew by how much colder the more southern latitude makes it, by how culturally alive that city is, and how terrific their metro transport system – even I worked it out eventually.

I wore long johns under my jeans every day, fell in love with the Victoria Markets and the State Library, and was interviewed by terrific women on commmunity radio: Bridget Bosun on JOYFM, the gay & lesbian station; Gab Reade on 3CR, the left-wing social justice and environmental one that felt like home, and 3MDR, where my friend Ann Creber interviews really interesting people in extraordinarily diverse fields. All of them had read my book, and that’s more unusual than you’d think.

No camera, so no pics for you, but can report that the Eltham New Voices Festival went well, in wonderful venues like the faux-ancient Montsalvat and a mudbrick church hall, as did the Belgrave library talk, with lots of keen environmental interest and questions.

Now I am going into retreat to finish the text and illustrations of my next book, Mountain Tails, before the deadline of the end of August. Nearly there.

Camping to halt climate change

This may not sound like much action, but when there’s frost on the tents and no hot showers for six days (10-15 July) – it is suffering for the cause.

Held in Newcastle, the world’s largest coal port, the national Climate Camp drew hundreds of committed environmental activists, mostly young, since it followed the Students for Sustainability conference. But there were enough greyheads for me to feel at home when I joined them for three days.

With workshops and discussion groups, the whole event was astonishingly well-organised and run by volunteers. Great vats of great vegan food were prepared to feed the hundreds. I earned a blister from my stints there, chopping pumpkin mostly.
And there was action. On the Saturday hundreds more concerned people joined us. We crouched down to form a human sign – ‘Cut carbon — now or never’ and a human ticking clock, which caused us to leap up and ‘explode’ over the oval at ‘midnight’. If you weren’t in the helicopter it wasn’t much of a photo opportunity, except for the rear end of the person in front!

On Sunday we had over 1000 people of all ages and backgrounds turn up to walk to the coal terminal and perhaps stop the coal trains, to protest against coal’s role in fuelling climate change.

The rally included way-out costumes, clowns, drummers, the Radical Cheerleaders, mums pushing strollers, kids holding hands – and knee-challenged grannies like me. There would have been a lot of high bright beseeching banners but the police banned their poles.

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New Voices in Eltham

This month I’m heading back down to the cultural haven of Eltham in Victoria.

The Eltham Bookshop is presenting their annual New Voices Festival and I’ve been invited to take part.

My panel session, ‘A cat among the pigeons,’ chaired by Professor Catherine Cole of RMIT’s School of Creative Media, is at 1.30-3.00 pm on Sunday 20th July.

Bookings essential: email the Eltham Bookshop or download the full programme here: new-voices-2008

I’ll also be speaking at Belgrave Library at 12.30 on Thursday 24th.

Natural art

bark sculpture
In the Giant Snow Gum Walk in Coolah Tops National Park, I saw this strange suspended sculpture ahead. A cocoon?

Pink one side, elephant grey on the other, it proved to be a strip of intensely wrinkled bark. I could see the mould that made it on the tree trunk above.

Artlessly natural, as we say, or naturally arty?
bark scar

Giant snow gums

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The Giant Snow Gums Walk in Coolah Tops National Park took me into a world totally new to me.

Here Eucalyptus pauciflora grow tall and straight, not low and blizzard-racked like the sort of snow gum I had in mind, as in the Snowy Mountains.

This open forest has a lower storey of a strange wattle, slender dark trunks bearing no lower branches beneath their oriental umbrellas of bluish-green.

To me their fluid shapes have a rather sinister frozen-in-action look. And are they whispering to each other up there as they lean towards each other?

Or are they receiving instructions to let me pass or not? Perhaps from the gargoyle mouth on the mighty snow gum just ahead?
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Tops that rock

hunter dustEarly in March I went to the Coolah Tops National Park for the first time. Averaging 1100 metres, they offer what would be stunning views over the Liverpool and Breeza Plains—if the Hunter coalmines’ dust haze hadn’t got that far. But I’d actually come for the Coolah Tops Jazz Festival.

coolah screerocksbandBefore the music began I did note that each ridge top was of loose basalt rocks, that screes on mountainsides were common, and that certain freestanding rocks were glaring rather balefully at the tourists snapping them.

Then the Bogalusa Strutters started strutting about, making music on the move and being cheeky. We left the rocks alone.

As the afternoon progressed towards evening, the Eskies and folding camp chairs multiplied, coats and beanies replaced the sunhats, and artists like the George Washingmachine Band and Julie O’Hara took to this stage at the edge of the world.

In between we had displays of Australian wildlife such as writhing but friendly pythons, a closely held crocodile and even an amiable Joanna Goanna.

NPWS guides led short bushwalks nearby for those who wanted to stretch their legs or slow down on the Shiraz.

It was a fun country sort of day in a great setting, where most people camped overnight nearby, after dancing in the dark on a dance ‘floor’ the size of a football field. Bit like picnic races I imagine.dancefloor