Not far from Piero’s bridge is this signpost, showing that Monteviasco is only 1.1 kilometres away. Unfortunately it does not show that every step of those 1.1 kilometres is upwards,1400 stony steps winding their way to this higher village. It also reckons there is a restaurant and accommodation there.
I have to stop often to give my knees a rest. The steps pass through a beautiful chestnut, beech and walnut forest. I choose a good stout stick to support my slightly wonky progress; stones laid vertically are not like concrete steps.
The climb is worth it, as the views of deeply incised mountain valleys are superb.
There used to be a (shudder!) cable car running up to here, but after the accidental death of an employee, it was stopped… and years later, has not restarted. Not even my knees would have induced me to use such a thing.
We can see a mountain farm, for summer grazing use, other small villages across the valley, and even a glimpse of Lake Maggiore far below.
There is of course a church, amazingly grand inside for a small village. The earlier … and current…influence and role of the Catholic Church in communities is very evident. We pass small shrines to the Madonna or a special saint on every walk.
The restaurant advertised for Monteviasco, Il Circolo Vecchio, is the only surviving one of three, but is open, friendly and serving good coffee and fabulous cakes. However, its very large dining room seems optimistic.
But on our carefully tentative way down– more perilous than fatiguing– we pass dozens of people coming up, many with short-legged dogs, and even one with two little goats.
That restaurant will be full, and the climbers will have earned whatever delicious food is on offer.
I also pass several of these small lizards, the sort I have seen often in the Emilia Romagna region but rarely managed to catch with the camera. It is, I gather, an Italian Wall Lizard, but there are several sorts. I have seen one at least with a bright green back. They are like our skinks, small and speedy.
This creature is not moving, so I can study it at leisure; if only such an ancient stump could talk… as some might say. But all Italy is drenched in history, and its people are the slightest of its passing inhabitants.
Thanks for those thoughts Gil. Yes the wild herbs were a revelation… thyme growing underfoot in the meadows cropped by goats for example. You may have read the quote that Derek Finter cited on an earlier one of my posts, which went something like ‘You can have the universe if you’ll just leve me Italy.’
Amen!
Thanks so much for sharing your travels and explorations. So strongly reminiscent of my visits to Italy. Such a beautiful and amazing country. The mountains and villages are built in the most spectacular places and when they ring a church bell the sound resonates throughout the surrounding area. Glorious sound. I found the oregano growing up in the high villages had such a lovely sweet and delightful perfume so much better than what we buy here.